Trusted cookbooks

12/12/04

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Over the years, I have collected many recipes from many different sources—but there are certain cookbooks that I return to repeatedly, and which I implicitly trust. Nearly every recipe is a success, and I have no fears about using them to cook a new dish for 30 or 40 people at my cohousing community. Recipes that I have listed in my own cookbook sometimes borrow from these sources, but only if I have made modifications or adaptations for particular cooking methods (like cooking on the Kamado). All books are still in print as of this writing.

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Cooking theory
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"On Food and Cooking, the Science and Lore of the Kitchen," Harold McGee—not a book of recipes, but a comprehensive encyclopedia of cooking theory. A great resource for understanding recipes, and learning to improve/improvise you own.

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"French Cooking for the American Table", René Verdon—excellent (if elaborate) recipes, as well as wonderfully enjoyable explanations of cooking theory. Verdon was executive chef for the Kennedy White House. I purchased this cookbook at the bargain bin of a Westwood bookstore while attending UCLA in 1975.

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Recipes
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"A Well-Seasoned Appetite," Molly O'Neill—Another bargain bin special; this one a gift from my sister who found it in New York among other first editions containing typographical errors. I have found a few obvious mistakes, which I presume are corrected in later editions. While not particularly comprehensive, this seasonal book makes excellent use of fresh ingredients available throughout the year. Every recipe that I have tried is wonderful!

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"Paella!, Spectacular Rice Dishes from Spain," Penelope Casas—she's not kidding about spectacular! If you are interested in Paella, this is the book. Recipes for 40 Paella dishes, including seafood, meat, poultry, game, mixed meat & seafood, and vegetable dishes. If that's not enough, there are chapters on tapas (appetizers), desserts, etc. I am a fanatic about Spanish food, but you will notice that I haven't posted a single recipe in my cookbook. That's because I'm still working my way through Penelope's wonderful books, and I haven't yet found a thing to improve upon!

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"The Foods and Wines of Spain," Penelope Casas—as wonderful as Paella is, it is but a hint of what Spain has to offer. This book contains recipes for many of the other wonderful foods of Spain. This is a cuisine derived from many cultures, with many culinary influences and regional variations, all blended together with exceptional results.

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"Tapas, the Little Dishes of Spain," Penelope Casas—another winner from Penelope. If you have ever spent time in Spain, you have no doubt been enchanted by the tapas bars, serving a seemingly endless variety of appetizers. Until you have spent the holy week in Seville, moving from bar to bar enjoying tapas & dry sherry, while experiencing the eerie religious music and processions, you can't say that you have fully experienced life. The recipes vary from the simple to the elaborate, but they are all fabulous.

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"French Cooking for the American Table," René Verdon—excellent recipes, as well as wonderfully enjoyable explanations of cooking theory. Verdon was executive chef for the Kennedy White House. I purchased this cookbook at the bargain bin of a Westwood bookstore while attending UCLA in 1975.

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"The People's Republic of China Cookbook," Nobuko Sakamoto—a most amazing collection of Chinese cooking. What makes this book special? To quote from the introduction: "there has been no single comprehensive book based on officially published recipes from the People's Republic itself... the author has been able to secure and translate three important sources" including the eleven volumes of the Treatise on Famous Chinese Dishes, The Cookbook of Famous Dishes from the Peking Hotel Restaurant, and The Masses Cookbook. From simple to elaborate, and all arranged regionally, this book is a pleasure to read and cook from, as well as being absolutely reliable.

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"Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone," Deborah Madison—this is truly a book for everyone. I am no fan of the typical vegetarian cookbook, filled with modified meat dishes adapted to the vegetarian diet via ingredient substitution. This book is something entirely different, filled with 1,400 recipes designed to celebrate fruits & vegetables in all of their glory.

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"Cook's Illustrated"—a magazine, not a book. I have a love/hate relationship with the folks at Cook's Illustrated. The cooking techniques are very reliable and the results are usually excellent, even if they don't always live up to the hyperbole. On the other hand, they have a habit of "discovering" techniques that are ages old and taking credit for them. They also have the arrogance to "improve" (i.e. adapt to the American palate) centuries old dishes from other cultures, while insulting the original and calling theirs "The Best." Give me a break. Every time I read one of these articles, I am tempted to cancel my subscription. Nevertheless, I read this enlightening yet infuriating magazine from cover to cover as soon as it hits my mailbox.

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"The Best Recipe," by the editors of Cook's Illustrated—reliable recipes, excellent techniques, and beautifully accurate illustrations.

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"The Best Recipe, Grilling & Barbecue," by the editors of Cook's Illustrated—an indispensable book for owners of kettle barbecues (e.g. Weber). This book is less useful if you use a ceramic cooker like a Kamado, since the excellent techniques must be adapted. The recipes are quite good and reliable, though I dislike their "simple dry spice rub for poultry." Recipes from this book have served as the starting point for many of my own Kamado experiments.

 

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